Vienne: Echos of the Gallo-Roman Empire

January 20th

Not a half-hour train ride from Lyon lies the city of Vienne. With Roman ruins, preserved pantheons, and medieval cloisters dispersed through the narrow cobblestones streets, Vienne brings you back in time with just a step into the old town. Perhaps it is just me, but I couldn’t help but pause and reflect on the monumental amount of history, and the numerous different civilizations that had walked this area before I did.

Vienne was my first day trip, outside of Lyon, alone. When I booked the train, I responsibly checked the weather and scheduled it for the one day that was supposed to be nice that weekend. Apparently, the weather report changed. However, once you realise that if you wait for sun during a French winter, you will not see much at all, you put on your raincoat and bring your umbrella everywhere.

As I was visiting on a Saturday, the core of the Vielle Ville hosted France’s second largest market during the morning. The myriad of stalls and calling voices created such a lively atmosphere. Even after hundreds of years, the outdoor markets in France still attract a crowd.

The damp cold was starting to seep through my coat as I paused at a table of silk and cashmere scarves. The bold patterns combined with earthy toned colours certainly made an attractive display. The man was selling his wares excitedly, calling out about good deals and the superior quality of the fabric. I fell into a conversation with a woman standing next to me, and we debated the accuracy of the stall keeper’s claims. Eventually, she decided the fabric felt well enough to her to be believed. Regardless, I decided that they were soft and warm, and I was cold!

While trying to get a feel for the city and collect my bearings, I found myself wandering the narrow, empty, and steep side streets of the oldest parts of town. One positive thing about the rain, I realized, is that it provides ample opportunity to capture the fairy tale streets without the intrusion of people wandering into your photo. I must say that despite the chill, it was rather tranquil to be wandering the uneven cobblestones and wood shuttered windows with the soft patter of rain against the roofs.

Eventually, my wandering lead me, quite accidentally, up to Mont Pipet. From this viewpoint, one can see the whole of Vienne, from the old Roman amphitheater at Pipet’s base to the mélange of terracotta roofs and church steeples.  I love how the cities in the region are built on multiple levels, offering views that showcase their architecture. Of course, this was historically based on strategic rather than aesthetic planning, but the results after hundreds of years is magnificent.

After a stop for lunch in a locally-recommended restaurant- complete with wine from the region- I headed across the river to the Gallo-Roman Archaeology Museum. I arrived a bit soggy from the on-going rain, but happily learned that the museum had a great student discount! They also offered free audio-guides as a way to tour the museum.

While the museum isn’t particularly large, it tells a fascinating story. The audio tour takes you through the different historical periods and the lives of those who once lived in there very spots where you stand. As you wander through the preserved mosaics, tools, and everyday items from two thousand plus years ago, the guides reconstruct the houses and bustle of the time.

One of the most interesting aspects of the museum was its glass walls, allowing you to see the land and reconstructed models of history at the same time. I love exploring history in a way that considers the small ways of life held by the different people who once existed here, and that is exactly what this museum offered.

In addition to the inside exhibit, the museum also hosts an archaeological garden, where the foundations of the houses are preserved. On a nicer day, one could walk through the site. However, with the rain still pouring down, I contented myself with looking on through the glass walls and the suspended platforms intended to give the best possible views of the sites.

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That evening, I arrived back at my apartment damp and exhausted, but thoroughly pleased with what I had found so close to Lyon. The big sites in “my” region of Europe are absolutely on my must-see list. However, having the opportunity to live here, rather than just visit, allows me to explore the corners often missed on a packed vacation. I am absolutely loving the opportunity to see all the different faces to France!

Thanks for reading!

 

xo,

Shannon